Sewing projects · Textile Design

How to – Machine Embroidery

Lock down has certainly given me lots of time to play and get back into things that take a little time, like machine embroidery. I love combining drawing with little tiny stitches, attaching pretty fabrics as I go.

I start by drawing in my sketchbook in pencil. I’m lucky to have a garden and fields nearby so most of my subjects are botanical lately although I also like drawing buildings and pets. I also like to ink it in so that it’s nice and neat and I can start to imagine how it will look on fabric. This helps you to see the design through the fabric when you transfer it too.

gilhoolie prayer plant drawing in ink

I prepare my fabric (usually a medium weight linen as I like the texture it has) by spraying it with starch spray and then ironing it. This just stiffens it a bit so that I don’t need to use an embroidery hoop. But you can use a hoop if you prefer, there are no rules!

Once the fabric is ironed dry I draw the design onto my fabric using a washable fabric pen (so that it can be removed once you’re done stitching). If I can’t see through the fabric very well I use a light-box but you can just hold it up to a window if you don’t have one.

The blue is washable fabric pen – it just washes off when you have finished

I use a special embroidery foot for my sewing machine, it just has an open ring that the needle goes through so you can see where you’re stitching. It’s really important that you lower your sewing machine’s feed foot too, so that the fabric can move freely as you stitch.

I usually cut little snips of fabrics and lay them out on my design so that I can see if they will work. Then, once I have decided on colours and patterns, I iron them onto the main fabric using bondaweb. It just stops them from moving around while you stitch. It’s very easy to use. You iron it onto the wrong side of your fabric and peel off the backing. Then iron it in place before you start stitching. That’s what I have done for the leaf in the image above.

See, I told you it takes a while! Now you’re ready to start sewing! Just relax and go with it. Set the speed to relatively fast and have fun drawing with tiny stitches. I always use a medium grey Gutterman 100% polyester thread so nothing special. Maybe have a practice on a scrap of fabric first if you need to. Occasionally the stitching goes a bit crazy and I end up with lots of stitching underneath – that’s why it’s best to practice first. If this does happen you just need to adjust your sewing machine tension as it’s probably too tight.

I have just finished this drawing of a prayer house plant. They have beautiful striped green leaves that are a burgundy colour underneath. The leaves lie flat during the day and fold upward at night, as if in prayer. I recently re-potted this one into a pretty patterned pot from Anthropologie and it’s really happy, sprouting new shoots (which in turn makes me happy!)

Read more about machine embroidery in another blog post here.

Do get in touch if you need help with machine embroidery, or if you would like to commission a drawing or lampshade.

NEW! gilhoolie embroidered lampshades collection – check out my little pieces of art wrapped around a light, available to buy now.

Artwork · Sewing projects

A little machine embroidery lesson…

I love drawing but always feel as though I should take up painting or go back to screen printing or something to bring my work to life and give it colour and depth. The only problem is I think I’m a bit too lazy to get the paints out and I don’t really have a space dedicated to messy screen printing equipment just yet; as much as I love the effects it can produce. I’m, much more likely to have a play with my drawings in PhotoShop which is fine, but sometimes it feels a bit like cheating to me.

Anyway, I haven’t been completely lazy and have been really enjoying working on my drawings with lots of machine embroidery lately which is great fun.

I was inspired to get my sewing machine out of it’s cover when I visited the Affordable Art Fair at Battersea earlier this year. When I walked into the show the first thing I saw was an artist sitting at a sewing machine and I had to go and have a look. Harriett Riddell was artist in residence for the evening and was surrounded by ‘spectators’, avidly watching as she casually machine embroidered portraits for just £40 each in half an hour. I loved her quirky free style and couldn’t believe that she did it all without drawing anything first!

Harriet Riddell of InStitchYou portrait at the Affordable Art Fair

And now for the machine embroidery lesson…

I’m not quite so brave… yet. I like to draw on paper first, then, if it’s a drawing I really like and I think it would look good on fabric I prepare for machine embroidery by tracing the drawing onto some fabric using a washable pen. I starch the fabric first – this makes it easier to sew using a sewing machine and means you don’t need to use an embroidery hoop which can be a bit cumbersome.

You need a special foot for machine embroidery – see the photo below – it has a kind of ring foot so that you can see where you’re sewing. It’s also vital before starting to lower the sewing machine teeth – this means that you can move the fabric freely, rather than sewing in straight lines. Set the sewing machine to a normal stitch and don’t go too slow. Just practice on a scrap of fabric first; try writing, it’s very liberating once you relax and un-hunch your shoulders!!

Here’s a picture I took when I was working on my first machine embroidery flower picture – dried poppy seed heads. The blue lines are from the washable pen and have to be washed out after sewing. I like the way machine embroidery gives the drawings a sketchy feel and I’m getting better at accepting the fact that they can’t be perfect (and it’s actually best that they aren’t!) I’m on my third flower drawing now and I have become much better at drawing the outline first but then filling in a lot of the detail as I go; using the needle as if it were a pencil.

Once I have stitched the outline of the drawing I get out my stash of fabrics and choose 2 or 3 I think would work to add some colour and pattern. I attach the fabric by ironing on Bondaweb – all a bit fiddly but it stops it moving around and means you don’t have any messy glue or sharp pins in the way. Then you can get sewing again. It’s definitely not something to do if you’re in a rush or not feeling very patient!

Sometimes I add paper too – here’s the same drawing a bit further on:

And here’s the final piece. I think it’s my favourite one so far and that’s because it’s very simple and I really like the colours (grey and yellow always a favourite) and shapes of the flowers. Watch out for more on the other drawings in future blog posts.

For now though, my latest project is to cover some foam on a window seat in our new dining room, hopefully edged with contrasting binding (arghhh!) A bit of a challenge as I haven’t made cushions for a long time; I think I’ll have to watch that video on inserting a zip again first!!

Since this I have started a gilhoolie embroidered lampshade collection – you can see them here, available to buy or commission now.

Dressmaking · Sewing projects

My first attempt at dressmaking!…

A couple of weeks ago I attended a dressmaking workshop at the lovely guthrie & ghani in Moseley, Birmingham. I had booked it as a spur-of-the-moment ‘thing’ when I was inspired by the amazing people on the Great British Sewing Bee programme. I really didn’t think about the (nearly) 2 hour journey to get there on a Saturday morning; I just knew I had to have a go and I really wanted to visit Lauren’s haberdashery shop too.

Well, I wasn’t disappointed by the shop that’s for sure. I only wish I had had more time to browse before the workshop started upstairs. So many gorgeous fabrics, trims, patterns, not to mention the stunning decor of the building (love the pink woodwork!) I really do wish we had a guthrie & ghani near me!

So, my workshop was taught by the lovely Tilly from Tilly and the Buttons. You can see some more photos from the workshop on her website (and a few shots of me looking very studious!) It was a great introduction to dressmaking, with lots of tips on things from cutting out the pattern pieces (I didn’t realise it would take sooooo long!!) to lining up the  pieces against the selvage, to symbols on patterns and lots more. We had 6.5 hours to make the miette skirt designed by Tilly (a skirt for beginners with no zips or buttons).

It was a bit of a rush to the finish but lots of fun (we did have a break for a cuppa, biscuits and a very yummy lunch though, sewing is very thirsty work you know!) I only wish I had had more time to socialise as I was desperate to finish with Tilly’s expertise there, rather than finishing off on my own at home. Luckily though, I only had to finish the ties and hem so it wasn’t too bad, my studious-ness paid off!

Whizzy pink zig-zag top-stitching on the pockets

I was thoroughly exhausted after my drive home but really felt I had achieved something. So here it is – I’m not sure about the fabric I chose but I didn’t want to have to match patterns so it was okay for a beginner I think… and I’m not sure about the fit on me but then I’m ultra-fussy with clothes, I really am. I already have a Collette pattern for a shift dress to make next, I just need to find the right fabric, a bit more colour and pattern this time I think.

My first skirt!

It definitely made a nice change from making lampshades, thank you guthrie & ghani and Tilly for a brilliant workshop, I loved it!

Artwork · Creative Courses · Sewing projects

Something new…

Okay, last night, unlike most nights when I go to sleep as soon as my head hits the pillow, I really struggled to switch off. My head was buzzing. Firstly, because I just watched the brilliant Great British Sewing Bee – and then promptly booked myself on a course led by Tilly Walnes from tilly and the buttons (who was on the show). It’s in June and is being held at Lauren Ghani’s new shop in Birmingham – guthrie and ghani, which opens on Saturday 27th April. Usually I have to think about these things for a bit but I decided to give it a go; I need a new challenge and making my own clothes will definitely be that!

Secondly, I took a look at guthrie and ghani’s fabrics (dangerous!) and decided to order some Denyse Schmidt Flea Market Fancy fabric. Not for dressmaking, but for some big lampshades (what else?!)

And thirdly, after my attempt to get back into drawing yesterday, I had a very strong urge to draw flowers today and was dying to get on with it. Not any old flowers either, foxgloves, don’t ask me why, I think I like the shape of them. It’s a shame there aren’t any around right now, so I had to go by photos on the web but it was fun to draw something that isn’t in my kitchen for once.

So a day for being bold today, and going for it, learning something new, not bad eh?!

wot no teapots?!
Lampshades · Sewing projects

Lotta lampshade anyone?!…

Okay, so I recovered the 1980s St Michael Tiffany lampshade yesterday. It only took an hour or so and I really enjoyed having a bit of a play, for once without hundreds of pins. However, I’m still not sure I have somewhere I could hang it (hence the hanging basket shot in the garden). I used some Lotta Jansdotter fabric I had left over and I still think they would look lovely in a little girl’s bedroom or nursery; it’s just a shame I have two boys. I think it looks less like a shower cap now though, especially without the frill around the bottom. Enough playing, back to preparing for a 1-2-1 tomorrow and finishing off my lampshade commission, lots of trim to attach!

Tiffany Lotta lampshade
Lotta lampshade

Sewing projects

Practice makes perfect…

It’s been all about practicing this week. I finally stripped my old lampshade frame yesterday. I think I had been putting it off because I was worried about what I’d find and there didn’t seem much point until I had chosen some fabric to recover it with. Amazingly, the horrible, faded, dusty cover came off (very stubbornly, a lot of sewing to unpick), to reveal a frame that is in absolutely perfect condition. The stand still needs some TLC but at least I can get on and cover the lampshade now. Oh, and I made another trip to my local antique shop and found another lampshade frame, much smaller but still really good to practice on.

Bare lampshade frame
What fabric to choose?

I also had a bit more practice at machine embroidery the other day and decided to copy my new logo onto some fabric to see what it looked like. I think it adds to the hand-drawn feel of the logo and it was nice to add a bit of colour for the two tulips.

My new business cards arrived too, no going back now!

gilhoolie logo machine embroidered

Sewing projects

Our house is becoming a gilhoolie gallery…

I keep telling myself it won’t be long until the sun’s shining so that I have an excuse to buy some new clothes, have a barbeque and sit in the garden sipping a nice cold glass of Pimm’s… well you have to dream don’t you?! At least I finished this machine embroidered picture today, oh and I think this weekend is going to be dry too, hooray!

Pimms machine embroidered

I delved into my fabric scraps bag (which is growing by the day) and decided to use the floral Liberty fabric from my last empire lampshade for the detail on the Pimm’s bottle. It has a really summery feel and I love the colours too. The main stitching on the picture is in a light grey but I added a gold/yellow thread for the writing on the bottle and the crown of course.

Pimms machine embroidered closeup
A close-up of the label

Last week I made a cushion and it reminded me that I don’t really enjoy making soft furnishings any more; far too many straight lines and neatness required. But drawing with my sewing machine is another matter entirely and as I get better at it the more fun it is and the less tense I am as I sew. I think I’ll frame this picture and put it on the wall in my kitchen, to add to the gilhoolie gallery (sorry family!)

Sewing projects

Recipe competition – win one of my tea-towels!

Ana from Granada in Spain recently ordered one of my machine embroidered cup of tea tea-towels from my Etsy shop. I found out yesterday it is going to be a prize for a recipe competition on her blog Cazarecetas. You can read the English translation here. It’s not a brilliant translation but gives you a rough idea.

I love pumpkin so I hope someone enters a yummy recipe and is happy with their prize!…

cup of tea tea towel recipe competition
gilhoolie tea-towel

Creative Courses · Sewing projects

Streetly stitch? Never heard of it!…

Well, I hadn’t until ten days ago. It’s a stitch used a lot in making hand-stitched lampshades and now I have finished making my first one, I can (almost) streetly stitch like a pro! I attended the second day of the bespoke lampshade course at Homemade London on Sunday and I have only just recovered. Not because of sore fingers this time though. It was really good fun again, but also quite intense trying to finish the lampshades and not make any mistakes along the way, I was exhausted by the end of the day. Thank goodness our lovely tutor Angela, was brilliant and calm as well as extremely knowledgeable about sewing and lampshades.

I have to say, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and will treasure my handmade lampshade (must find a suitable base to go with it now). It felt like we learnt a skill that’s becoming lost in the mass production of everything and I hope I can carry it on. I already have another frame ready to make another one so that I don’t forget how it’s done, you can never have too many lampshades!  Hopefully I’ll get a bit quicker this time, these lampshades definitely can’t be made in a hurry!

My pom pom lampshade
My pom pom lampshade

Sewing projects

Handmade little present…

Betsy egg cosy
Betsy egg cosy

I decided to make an egg cosy for a little girl’s birthday present this week. Okay so it’s not the latest expensive girly toy but it’s hand-made, personalised and I had fun making it while the boys played with their friends… It’s good practice for next week too, when I’m planning on machine embroidering my pictures onto the pile of tea-towels I have. Not sure they’ll be so easy but just as much fun.

Just a short post today, only one computer in the house and a school project to work on…